Transporting: Do not let your Poinsettia become chilled, this can cause leaf drop. If it has to be taken through
cold temperatures it should be wrapped in a protective sleeve to trap in warm air. When you reach home unwrap your poinsettia
at once. Plants that are left in sleeves for a long time tend to have drooping leaves that may not recover.
Poinsettias need moderate to bright light. Direct sunlight is not necessary.
Water: Water plants to maintain a moist
but not waterlogged soil. If your plant is placed in a cache pot or is wrapped in foil, check often to be sure the pot is not
sitting in water, as this will rot the roots
Fertilizing: Fertilize lightly every two weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer
after Poinsettia is finished blooming.
Maintaining: Any leaves that do age and turn yellow or brown should be removed.
It is possible to keep your plant and re-bloom it next year, after the holidays continue to grow your Poinsettia as described above.
Your plant will benefit from cutting the old stems back to about 8 inches. This will keep it at a desirable size and increase fullness.
Poinsettias can be summered outdoors as soon as night temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees. Remember to keep it out
of direct sun. You may need to trim again during the summer. Do not prune after September 1st. Continue to fertilize
on a regular schedule.
A Poinsettia can be very long lasting houseplant. The colored ‘petals’ on a poinsettia are really colored bracts (or leaves).
The true flowers are located in the center of these colored bracts. If they have not yet opened, your plant can remain in bloom for
several months. Even if they are open proper care of the plant will insure several weeks of beauty.
Mays Greenhouse ©2010